Insiders Tips: The Outer Banks

We're what you could call old hands when it comes to vacationing in North Carolina's barrier-island paradise, the Outer Banks. Over the years, we have collected quite a lot of "inside" info on places to eat, things to do, etc. I mean, what do you expect? We'd have to be idiots not to pick up a thing or two after all this time. It's not a big deal. To save other OBX visitors time, I've decided to share some of what we've learned.

You noticed that OBX, I guess. Took us awhile to figure this one out. Pretty cryptic, right? At first I thought it was some sort of Masonic thing. But it's actually an abbreviation for...Outer Banks. You will see this very clever shorthand adorning bumper stickers, t-shirts, signs—and now you're in on the secret.

Before you hit the beach, you'll need to load up on supplies. It's better to just buy them when you're there instead of looking for "deals" back home. You will see some stores called Wings, but hold out for something called Super Wings. They have everything. And every location we've been to has been staffed by the most helpful Russian teenagers. I got a great deal on an XL pair of trunks.

If you feel like a good beach read, drop in on the Sandy Books Bookstore on the Croatan Highway. Their clientele is smaller than what you might find in a bigger city, so their selection is a bit "limited," but root around and you just might come up with something. On our last visit, my wife found Trees and Shrubs of Missouri (beautiful pictures!), and I got a book called My Melancholy Whores, which I'm determined to finish.

The Outer Banks apparently have a very colorful history. We've never quite been able to find any museums, but we did play mini-golf at a place in Nags Head called Mutiny Cove, which has an exciting "pirate" theme. There was a very informative placard about real-life pirates and the twelfth hole is played through a replica pirate ship.

If you're in Kitty Hawk and you're hungry, try the Asian Express. The proprietor—can't quite pronounce his name, but he lets us call him Mort—has a really interesting story to tell. We were the only customers and our kids were next door in the dollar store, and my wife and I listened to him for, well, for I think two hours. I was never totally clear on what country Mort is from, but man, he really misses it! In the same shopping center there is a Food Lion, where you can pick up snacks for later. I was curious if it's any different from the Food Lion back home, but no, it is exactly the same.

If it gets too hot for you on the beach, escape to the air conditioning of the Regal Cinema in Kill Devil Hills. I remember seeing War Horse during our first summer here. This time we saw Ant-Man.

And so on. Like Rome, the Outer Banks was not built in a day. Nor was our long list of things to do. It is an investment, but if you spend enough time in a place, it will reveal itself to you.